This is actually my second time here in Bogota, Colombia. The first time was last year: October, 2012. That's when I learned how insane the airport here is and how overwhelming the flood of people (pushing one another just to catch a glimpse of the person they came for) can be, especially when you're nervous about finding your ride after landing in a foreign country. Thank God I wasn't alone that first time and that, when I was this second time, I was already prepared for the frantic mess.
David and I came to visit Katalina and her family. Kata had been my host daughter (female homestay student) a few months earlier. MI CASA ES SU CASA.
She came to Boston from Switzerland, but it turned out she was originally from Colombia. Her family had just moved back to the area a year or two earlier and she was planning to stay with them for a little while, a few months after leaving Boston. The timing was perfect!
We immediately got an introduction to the rainy, cold weather here in Bogota. It was pouring and the airport was under construction. What a mess!
Traffic was horrendous too. Kata explained about
PICO Y PLACA. Basically, your license plate number determines whether or not you can drive during the day, Monday-Friday. This helps to eliminate many of the cars that make up rush hour traffic. Then again, as happened for our airport pickup, many people just help one another out by lending and borrowing cars to avoid restrictions. click here if you're still curious
Kata welcomed us with open arms...as did much of her extended family. We stayed with Kata and/or some member of her family nearly every night of our week-long visit.
It's been days and I still haven't had a chance to post the protest photos and videos from Friday afternoon. Before I post them, here's a link to help you catch up and fill in some of the gaps left from the last blog post.
This is the first group I saw come through the area plus (near the end of the video) you'll see the riot-gear police ready for action and waiting on the sidelines.
As the day went on there were more and more people in a wide variety of costumes and all from different groups: Taxi drivers, students, artists, etc.
First of all, GRACIAS, Andrea, POR LA ENTRADA. I really appreciate your generosity in giving away your ticket when you found out I'd been dying to attend a TED talk!
So, this morning began with the fear that, by the end of the day, I might be hurt or killed due to aggressive, impassioned protestors who are quickly becoming more and more agitated. I was going into this situation alone and, as you know from the last blog, with very basic Spanish skills plus not much knowledge of Bogota's current political problems...a dangerous combination of course! Well, at least according to my vivid imagination. I'll let you be the judge.
However, my host mom, my driver and Andrea all independently evaluated the situation and decided I would be fine as long as they warned me of all the precautions I must take and tried to set me up with chaperones along the way. It didn't really work out the way they originally said it would - but nothing much seems to have gone as expected for me here, so that wasn't really a shock - but I couldn't be happier about never getting the contact info and, therefore, never getting in contact with my chaperone at TED. Had I been with her, I never would've been able to sprint up the street from the theater to get --- OOPS! I'm getting ahead of myself; LO SIENTO. Let me backup a bit.
Assuming you're as ignorant of Colombia's capital's politics as I was, please check out the backstory first:
BOGOTA'S MAYOR WARNS OF CRISIS IF HE IS OUSTED BOGOTA, Colombia (AP) — The mayor of Colombia's capital has told thousands of supporters the city will become ungovernable if he is forced from office.
Colombia's inspector-general has ordered Bogota Mayor Gustavo Petro removed and banished from politics for 15 years, deeming unconstitutional his behavior in a showdown last year with private garbage collectors.
Petro refuses to accept the order and has called supporters into the streets two consecutive nights.
Speaking from a city hall balcony Tuesday night, the mayor said that if the ruling is applied "Bogota will enter a crisis of governability."
Petro, a former rebel, accuses Inspector-General Alejandro Ordonez of doing the bidding of Colombia's far right.
Ok, now you need to know about Plaza de Bolivar (Bolivar Square) - seriously, don't skip that link...the pictures are gorgeous and the description is super brief, but extremely informative and important to the story! Andrea took me to La Candelaria - a historic neighborhood in downtown Bogotá, Colombia; the equivalent to the Old City in other cities...the architecture of the old houses, churches and buildings has Spanish Colonial and Baroque styles; the neighborhood includes Plaza de Bolivar. During our visit is when I first really learned about the people's displeasure/the mayoral controversy, but it was really just the tip of the iceberg. We didn't see much in the way of trouble - with the exception of armed guards around the government building...but they were similar to the guards outside Buckingham Palace with tourists taking pictures alongside them and everything, so I didn't think much of them. MIRA, here we are in the Plaza last Saturday, December 7, 2013:
Well, another attraction in this neighborhood happens to be TEATRO JORGE ELIECER GAITAN. Check out some holiday singers attracting a crowd of kids and adults alike in front of the theater this morning, Friday, December 13, 2013
OMG! Just realized it's Friday the 13th!! That would've been the last straw if I'd realized that this morning before I left to head into this area...I was already freaking out a little and just trying to be brave, but questioning if I should just cancel...that would've sealed the deal and I would've missed out on this scary, eye-opening, educational, fascinating, empowering, inspirational, long day.
Phewww! Thank goodness I rarely have reason to look at the calendar here JAJAJAJA :)
Alright, I got sidetracked. Back to the video of the morning activities at Teatro Jorge Eliecer Gaitan and the surrounding area:
Pretty low-key, right? Nice, family-friendly Colombian morning in Central Bogota, wouldn't you agree?
So, I parked myself at the OMA cafe across the street from the theater and waited for the proper time to go into the theater. Well, first I went shopping through that "mall" of souvenirs next door and took a quick walk up the street and saw some other interesting things:
As I walked back, the line to get into the TED event was already super long, but that was nothing compared to how many lined up behind me. For a while I just stood waiting and trying to listen in on other people's conversations to see if I could understand them. Then I realized, I need to just dive in and attempt my own conversation. Just my luck! The guy standing in line behind me lived in New York City for 6 months a while back and tried to learn English at the Embassy while he was there. Unfortunately for him, but lucky for me, he didn't meet with great success. This meant nearly our entire conversation had to happen in Spanish and that he completely understood how frustrating and difficult it could be to find conversation partners who are willing to put up with such slow and stuttered speech. PLUS he was happy to interrupt with grammar and pronunciation corrections. He even repeated and spelled out a few new words for me so I could add them to the iPhone Notes I've been keeping in an effort to study what I learn in conversation. If I didn't keep those notes, much of what Spanish speakers teach me in passing would go in one ear and out the other.
Anyway, the line did not move for almost an hour. So, we just kept talking until finally I requested a picture of our conversation (right). This pulled in a new conversation partner, originally our photographer (in the suit) - and, in order to get the picture of the 3 of us (left), we pulled in the very sweet couple that was standing behind him laughing at me being a total TOURISTA!
Eventually, we got in and immediately got separated as new lines formed for bracelets, bag checks, etc. But now I had more motivation to attempt additional conversations - YAY! So, as soon as I scored an aisle seat close to the stage, I wasn't afraid to say - in Spanish, of course - "Hi. Please excuse me, because my Spanish is very basic, but can you take a picture of me with the...umm...the area (circling stage in the air with my hand) in the .... umm ... errr ... sorry <blush>"
"Fondo! You want to say background. The word is fondo." Oh thank God...someone else speaks English. I turned and thanked him for his help, got the picture and began the next conversation. Turns out, he didn't really speak English, just like I don't really speak Spanish so we had a great mini Spanglish convo with all the basics. Where are you from, how long are you here, why are you here...
And my responses to these questions led me to Guillermo. He worked with international families, helping them with their adoptions for many years. As we continued to talk, he called all kinds of contacts who could help me to answer questions about the new international adoption laws in Colombia, etc. [People here are just so nice...but that's another blog post for another time]
At that moment, I thought Miryam would be joining me around 2:00 pm and then driving me home after the event, so I had saved a seat for her. Guillermo was happy to hear I wouldn't be there alone because he didn't feel it was safe outside and asked more about Miryam (my host mom) and how I had found her...
Six degrees of separation - that is Colombia. Andrea is Guillermo's wife's cousin. And, he lives in Miryam's neighborhood. Talk about a small world! I would say what a coincidence, but I'm beyond that now...it just IS in Bogota. Everyone is connected through family, friendship, business or otherwise here. Not so different from Small Town, USA except this city has a population of roughly 8 million people. Wow!
Hahaha...I have a love-hate relationship with this video. This was completely unplanned. I started the recording expecting just to say "Hola" and then go into an English explanation of the kitchen and what Miryam was cooking. Instead, something possessed me to try to use my crappy Spanish and MI MAMA was so cute in her response to being filmed I just had to keep going.
Isn't she so sweet? How lucky am I to have such a great home-stay?!?
Ok, check out a little piece of our life here in BARRIO BELLA SUIZA en Bogota, Colombia. We've already watched the video several times and although I'm ashamed to post it because I look like an idiot, she is just so excited so I have no choice. DISFRUTA!
At this point, I've been here for over a week. While much of Colombian life is pretty much the same as life in the United States, there are many very small differences. For example, nearly every home I've visited has a maid who cooks and cleans and takes care of all the household chores. She doesn't typically live in the home - or at least not in the homes I've been to - but she seems to work long hours there. More on that as I visit more homes and have a chance to ask more questions.
Today, I want to focus on the small, but significant differences in my home...well, in our building. Most of the homes I've visited, including ours, have a secured entrance. EL PORTERO guards the front entrance whether you're entering by foot or by car. He'll help to carry up heavy items to your apartment; he'll clean your car, both interior and exterior; he'll accept packages or anything else you may need him to collect and protect until you arrive home to accept them yourself; he's always friendly and polite even to EXTRANJERAS like me who can't quite communicate clearly ;)
So, there's a locked gate entry if entering by foot and a separate locked gate to enter by vehicle plus a bunch of security cameras plus EL PORTERO himself...but they still lock their doors. That wouldn't seem so strange to me IF there weren't three locks on our front door -- all 3 of which Miryam uses. I'm sure I'm just feeding into the Colombian stereotype that there is unthinkable danger that must be averted at all costs, but honestly that's not the case. I feel so safe and secure here in our home, in our building and in our neighborhood! Hmmmm, maybe one day I'll ask...but I don't want to offend anyone with that question. If you have suggestions on a better way to ask than "Why are we locked up like Fort Knox here?" please let me know. LOL!
Ok, let me show you a few more of the differences here in my building...
Well, I suppose it was unavoidable. The weather here changes throughout the day from hot and sunny to super cold and rainy and back again. In addition, I'm working in the infirmary with the babies at FANA. And, last but certainly not least, I'm sleeping far less here than is typical for me. There's just so much going on so I've had very late nights and early mornings and busy hours in between. Wish me luck getting rid of this ASAP. I really don't want to miss any time with the kids, but I can't be with them like this...here, see for yourself:
Speaking of the weather, how's it going in Boston? Any snow yet?
Do you know who Paul Walker is? He's the actor from the Fast and the Furious who recently died in a car crash. Normally, I wouldn't have known his name nor would I have remembered this news clip, but apparently it's huge news here in Bogota. Every day, I have heard about it from a minimum of 2 people which I think is really strange...or at least I thought so. However, after today, it seems more natural that the people of this fine city would be super interested in an extended movie series (they were in the middle of shooting Fast & Furious 7) that revolves around fast cars and dangerous situations. Furthermore, they have even greater interest in one's ability to crash and die in a motor vehicle accident. Part of the reason for that is the sheer number of cars on the road here which creates a massive amount of traffic. Therefore, typically, it wouldn't be possible for a motor vehicle operator to move fast enough to get into a deadly crash...PERO, A VECES...
My first vlog was filmed in my host mom's living room so I've decided to use a different room in the house for each new post. This time I'm filming from my bedroom which is also my study area. I'm sitting on the bed and you can see the desk area behind me. There you'll see flowers (my welcome gift from Miryam), Spanish Verb Handbook (my good luck gift from Paula) and a Powerbank-5200 (my emergency phone/computer charge gift from David) - - THANK YOU!!
Alright - let me just get right to it. FANA is the orphanage in Bogota, Colombia that I was adopted from at 3 months old. This is my first time going back to visit the children of FANA. Here's my reaction (and yes, perhaps I exaggerated a tad bit at the end...but not much, I swear!):
Whoah! There are ex-patriots here in Colombia?!? So many people from the U.S. (and Australia and the Netherlands and elsewhere) are living here and I met a bunch of them last night thanks to my host, Andrea. BUENA IDEA, MI AMIGA!
Before last night, I thought my mind was open to how wonderful Colombia is and could be, but apparently I was wrong. I was still only seeing it as a safe travel destination. The idea of people from other countries living here permanently never entered my mind and when it did, I just assumed every story would be someone from Venezuela or another neighboring country choosing to make a relatively small change by moving "next door" - I was so wrong.
Each person at the party came to Colombia for a different reason and every single one sounds like one of the video commercials from the Colombian campaign I told you about. MIRA:
Thank you to everyone at the party for making me feel welcome and for sharing your stories with me. It was an eye-opening experience, to say the least.
It's my first morning waking up here in Bogota. I arrived at El Dorado airport and was at the baggage claim by 4:45 PM yesterday afternoon. I got a little nervous because my phone was ready to die, I didn't have a place to charge it and I couldn't figure out how to contact Andrea (she picked me up and drove me to Miryam's house) because my phone had no service, I didn't have her Skype name saved and I had typed in her phone number incorrectly so I couldn't find her on WhatsApp. Talk about mini-nervous breakdown in my mind. It all worked out and the phone didn't die until I got into her car - phewwww! TENGO SUERTE!!
I slept well although probably not enough. It's hard to stay in bed with my mind so full of ideas and anticipation.
So, before things really take off here, I want to make my goals for this experience more concrete. Rather than just typing them out, I've decided to post my first video (excuse any errors please) from my host mom's living room. Enjoy!
I'm in the unique position of having been born in Colombia, but raised in the U.S. since I was 3 months old. So, throughout my life, I've heard the opinions of nearly everyone I've been in contact with regarding Colombia. Unfortunately, most of it has been negative...well, until about 5 years ago. In 2008, I began my career with ESL (English as a Second Language) adults from around the world. It turns out that those in other countries typically, although not always, have a more positive view of Colombia. From them, I've heard how kind and generous the people of Colombia tend to be whereas those from the U.S. overwhelmingly believe Colombia is a place of drugs, violence, conflict and kidnapping. Just the other night, my close friends asked me if I'd have a chaperone for my entire stay. When I replied no, they were visibly uncomfortable and made jokes about how I must blog, email or FB daily so they'll know I haven't been killed or kidnapped. They're not alone. Each time a new friend, co-worker, acquaintance or classmate learns I'm from Colombia, they inevitably mention one of 2 names, if not both: Juan Valdez and Pablo Escobar. QUE LASTIMA! That seems terribly sad to me...such a beautiful country with so much to offer and it's been reduced to coffee and cocaine in the American mindset, as well as many others. Colombia is well aware of their problematic reputation; it's why this program exists. My favorite of their steps toward building a better international image is their slogan:
In my opinion, it is more wishful thinking than truth at this point, but I do believe it will become a reality in the near future and I'd like to know I was a small cog in that wheel of change. That's one of the many reasons I'm here.
Here goes - my first blog - before I embark on the Ambassadors for Prosperity Program in Bogota, Colombia, they've asked me to reflect on a few things, beginning with why I signed up. I was adopted from FANA (Bogota, Colombia) in 1977. I returned for the first time in October, 2012, anxious to see, hear and learn everything I could about this place which had made life as I know it possible. Flor Angela, who had been at the orphanage since before my time, was a Godsend. She gave me my original documents, a picture of me at birth, a personalized tour and history of F.A.N.A. and many positive facts about the country of my origin. She's a beautiful person with a huge heart who believes she was most likely the one who handed me to my parents for the first time. QUE LINDA! I was blessed to meet with her...but it wasn't enough. I had waited decades to return and the things I wanted to see the most were the kids and everything related to them. How do they sleep? Where do they eat? Do they go to school here? Are there uniforms? Who takes care of them? DENIED! There was a measles outbreak which meant all children's areas were off-limits. Are you kidding me?!? Where's the hidden camera?? After returning to the States, I was added to FANA's mailing list and that's how I was introduced to this incredible opportunity. On May 8, 2013, this email header was all I needed to see - COUNT ME IN!
This is actually my second time here in Bogota, Colombia. The first time was last year: October, 2012. That's when I learned how insane the airport here is and how overwhelming the flood of people (pushing one another just to catch a glimpse of the person they came for) can be, especially when you're nervous about finding your ride after landing in a foreign country. Thank God I wasn't alone that first time and that, when I was this second time, I was already prepared for the frantic mess.
